Planting vegetables take extra care to get a great outcomes, it's great to be a person that has special care for those veggies, especially for tomato trees, it can set you panic if you find out that your tomato leaves turned from green to yellow. It's unacceptable for people with a lot of experience in planting. Here are 5 reasons that made your tomato leaves turn yellow.
Are your tomato leaves turning yellow?
Whether you have cared for your tomato plant from seed or you’ve hand-picked the right transplant from the garden center, a bit of panic may set in when you spot the leaves of your tomato plants turning from green to yellow.
Especially as beginners, it’s hard to know what is normal and what isn’t. And if we find more and more leaves turning yellow, we rightly become alarmed. Still, sometimes it’s difficult to identify the problem and even harder to know what to do about it.
While yellow leaves on tomato plants can be caused by a dozen or more culprits, I’ve found these five among the most common. In this episode of the Beginner’s Garden Podcast, I discuss these five possible causes of yellow tomato leaves, along with identifying markers, prevention measures, and what to do about each of them. Click to listen to the episode or read the post below for the highlights.
When you first transplant your tomatoes into the ground, especially in the early spring when nights aren’t warm yet, tomatoes will go through a transplant adjustment period. In this week or two following transplant, you’ll notice your once-vibrant green leaves lightening in color. But, if you look at the newer leaves at the top, they are young, healthy, and growing.
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What to do about it: Yellow lower leaves should be snipped off anyway (see below), so as long as you see healthy, vibrant leaves at the top of the plant, cut off the yellow leaves at the stem. They won’t benefit the plant and will likely only serve as a gateway for disease.
Transplant Shock Prevention: Some varieties of tomatoes are more susceptible than others, but waiting to plant the tomato plants until the optimum time will help to prevent transplant shock. Wait until the nighttime temperatures stay in the 50s.
Early blight is the culprit every year in my garden, and it’s easy to spot when you know what you’re looking for. Caused by a soil-borne fungus, early blight travels from the soil to the lower leaves. At the earliest stage of infection, these lower, older leaves will begin showing irregularly shaped yellow splotches that progress into brown spots with a yellow “halo” around them. The splotches appear almost like a target with a brown center.
As the disease progresses unchecked, these entire stem and leaves turn yellow and then brown, and finally, they shrivel up completely.
What to do about it: At the earliest sign, cut off the affected leaves. The longer the leaves remain on the plant, the more likely the fungus will spread up the plant to the healthy leaves.
Early Blight Prevention:
Keep plants spaced out well (3 feet minimum) to allow airflow between the plants. Wet, humid conditions exacerbate early blight.
Mulch heavily in the entire tomato area, creating a barrier between the soil and the tomato leaves.
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As the young plants grow, cut off lower leaves completely, especially if they are touching the ground (even if they’re healthy). Leave a 12-18″ gap between the ground and the lowest sets of leaves.
When irrigating, chose a drip or soaker hose method to dispense water to the root zones of the plants (view my choices here). Aim not to let the leaves get wet, which will allow the disease to spread more easily. If you must use overhead watering, do so at the beginning of the day so the water can evaporate quickly. At the end of the season, remove all plants and destroy them; do not compost. Rotate crops next season.
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